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WNEP - Brick Patio Paver Installation

BRICK SELECTION

It is important to choose the right color of brick. Look at the color of your home and other structures that will be adjoining your patio. Also, there are many sizes and shapes. Consult your local brick supplier.

We recommend Wilkes-Barre Clay (see WNEP logo above). Their phone number is (570) 288-1471. They have a great showroom with lots of information and samples.

BRICK INSTALLATION

STONE BASE: Should be ¾" modified stone, also known as 2A, or ¾" quarry blend. Six inches of modified stone should be used as base. Compact with a vibra-plate. (You can rent one from most rental outfits like U-Haul, etc.)

MANUFACTURED SAND: Manufactured sand is recommended. At a 2" depth. Must be compacted the same way.

PAVERS: Are typically sold by the square foot. Calculate the square footage needed for your project and add 5%-10% for overage, cuts, waste, etc. Concrete pavers are recommended.

Measure the area you intend to pave. Determine square footage:

(Length x Width = Square Feet) adding 5-10% for cuts and extra pavers that might be needed later. Measure the linear feet of all edges not up against a permanent structure, such as a house, etc., to determine the amount of edge restraint needed. Draw a plan on a piece of paper showing all important dimensions.

NOTE: Before digging, always call your local utility companies to locate any underground companies to locate any underground lines.

In general terms, a minimum of 6" of compacted aggregate base is recommended for patios and walkways, and 8" for residential driveways where freeze/thaw conditions exist. Add 2" for the depth of the manufactured sand and the paver thickness to determine the total depth to excavate. Excavation should be 6" wider than the finished pavement’s dimensions on sides where edge restraint is to be used.

Slope and grade are important to ensure proper runoff. It is best to plan at least a ¼" per foot drop, but try not to exceed ½" per foot.

As with any building project, the finished pavement will only be as good as the construction of the base. For this reason, this is the most important part of the installation process.

First, run your plate compactor over the excavated area, making sure that soil does not get stuck to the bottom of the plate tamper. Each pass should overlap the previous one by about 4". Now spread your stone base material out evenly in a 2" layer. If the material is dry and dusty, use a garden hose to thoroughly wet it down. This helps make the gravel easier to rake and faster to compact. Starting around the outer perimeter, use the plate compactor to pack together the base, again overlapping each pass about 4" and working towards the center. You should make at least two complete passes for each subsequent layer of base material until the final thickness is achieved.

When finished with the base it should be very smooth and flat and reflect the final grade of your pavers. If you were to put a straight edge flat on the surface, there should be no more than a ¼" gap at any point along the straight edge.

Evenly distribute a quantity of manufactured sand between the guides and drag the 6-8 ft. 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 over the guides, to create a smooth, even layer of sand, striking off any excess.

LAYING THE PAVERS

NOTE: All projects must start at a perfect 90-degree angle. Use 3-4-5 triangle method to establish this. For an even mix of pavers, draw several cubes at a time when installing them.

Starting from a permanent edge such as a house, driveway, or even a piece of rigid PVC edge restraint, lay out your first paver starting from either side. As you start laying pavers, work from right to left, then left to right, and so on, one row of pavers at a time. Set the pavers lightly onto the sand; never press or hammer them in. Every 4 feet or so, run a string across the front of the laying edge to maintain straight lines. If you are doing the project over a couple of days, cover the entire area with plastic overnight if rain is expected.

Mark any stones to be cut with a wax crayon and use either a diamond blade wet saw (recommended), a paver splitter or a hammer and chisel. Try to keep cut pieces along the edges to a size at least that of one half paver. Always wear safety glasses.

Sweep the pavers clean prior to compacting. Cut a length of Mirafi 500X or similar fabric to be used as a medium between the tamper and pavers. Start tamping around the perimeter and working inward keeping the fabric between the tamper and the pavers. Make at least two passes over the pavers, overlapping each pass 2-4 inches. Make the second pass at a 90-degree angle to the first. This step will level the pavers and compact them into the bedding sand, filling the joints with sand from below.

Spread joint sand over pavers. Use a stiff bristle street broom and sweep back and forth over the entire pave surface until all joints are filled to the top with sand. Sweep off all excess sand. Again, use Mirafi 500X or similar medium between the tamper and the pavers. Start tamping around the perimeter and working inward keeping the fabric between the tamper and the pavers. Make at least two passes over the pavers, overlapping each pass 2-4 inches. Make the second pass at a 90-degree angle to the first. This final step will force the sand into the joints of the pavers creating an interlocking pavement. After compacting the pavers, sweep with sand again if needed.